Re: Projection Screen Question for Home Theater

[cc0074559]

news.east.cox.net wrote:
> I am adding a family room to the back of our house, and during the rough in
> stage (where we are now) am considering adding a screen and ceiling mounted
> projector. This would be for DvD viewing only. Any suggestions for a
> mid-range ceiling mounted projector and screen. I looked at motorized
> screens but think they are too expensive for occasional use, so am looking
> at a manual. All the different screen formats have me confused, as well as
> the screen finish types (matte, etc.).
>
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Chris Stone
> mailto:cstone@clarknexsen.com
>
>
>
Panasonic AE700U projector, Dalite high contrast matte white screen
(106" diag), Denon 1905 Reciever, LG3510A upscaling HD/DVD tuner-player
and 7.1 Sony speakers.Fox is kickin in the OTA HD arena. It's like
watching a NASCAR race from the stands. All under $4K
MORE HD MORE HD

[mossback]

Recommend you try the da-lite
website.http://www.da-lite.com/products/?PHPSESSID=f032d1c24adb9088f3476fe2a2b3c920
I bought a 7ft manual screen...very happy with it. Might have opted for one
better designed for ambient light as my windows present a little challenge
for day time viewing.

"cc0074559" <inspired3@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:l8idnTgirad97rvfRVn-qQ@comcast.com...
> news.east.cox.net wrote:
>> I am adding a family room to the back of our house, and during the rough
>> in
>> stage (where we are now) am considering adding a screen and ceiling
>> mounted
>> projector. This would be for DvD viewing only. Any suggestions for a
>> mid-range ceiling mounted projector and screen. I looked at motorized
>> screens but think they are too expensive for occasional use, so am
>> looking
>> at a manual. All the different screen formats have me confused, as well
>> as
>> the screen finish types (matte, etc.).
>>
>> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Chris Stone
>> mailto:cstone@clarknexsen.com
>>
>>
>>
> Panasonic AE700U projector, Dalite high contrast matte white screen (106"
> diag), Denon 1905 Reciever, LG3510A upscaling HD/DVD tuner-player and 7.1
> Sony speakers.Fox is kickin in the OTA HD arena. It's like watching a
> NASCAR race from the stands. All under $4K
> MORE HD MORE HD

[Clams Canino]

Why pull down?

Make a permanant screen out of drapery "black-out cloth" and put up a cool
set of drapes to cover it when not in use.

-W

"mossback" <rwelcher@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:7iKWd.104861$pc5.62558@tornado.tampabay.rr.co m...
> Recommend you try the da-lite
>
website.http://www.da-lite.com/products/?PHPSESSID=f032d1c24adb9088f3476fe2a
2b3c920
> I bought a 7ft manual screen...very happy with it. Might have opted for
one
> better designed for ambient light as my windows present a little challenge
> for day time viewing.
>
> "cc0074559" <inspired3@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:l8idnTgirad97rvfRVn-qQ@comcast.com...
> > news.east.cox.net wrote:
> >> I am adding a family room to the back of our house, and during the
rough
> >> in
> >> stage (where we are now) am considering adding a screen and ceiling
> >> mounted
> >> projector. This would be for DvD viewing only. Any suggestions for a
> >> mid-range ceiling mounted projector and screen. I looked at motorized
> >> screens but think they are too expensive for occasional use, so am
> >> looking
> >> at a manual. All the different screen formats have me confused, as
well
> >> as
> >> the screen finish types (matte, etc.).
> >>
> >> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> >>
> >> Chris Stone
> >> mailto:cstone@clarknexsen.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> > Panasonic AE700U projector, Dalite high contrast matte white screen
(106"
> > diag), Denon 1905 Reciever, LG3510A upscaling HD/DVD tuner-player and
7.1
> > Sony speakers.Fox is kickin in the OTA HD arena. It's like watching a
> > NASCAR race from the stands. All under $4K
> > MORE HD MORE HD
>
>

[Gary Eickmeier]

Clams Canino wrote:

> Why pull down?
>
> Make a permanant screen out of drapery "black-out cloth" and put up a cool
> set of drapes to cover it when not in use.

Does anyone out there understand this?

Gary Eickmeier

[azzure@olypen.com]

Gary Eickmeier wrote:
>
>
> Clams Canino wrote:
>
>> Why pull down?
>>
>> Make a permanant screen out of drapery "black-out cloth" and put up a
>> cool
>> set of drapes to cover it when not in use.
>
>
> Does anyone out there understand this?
>
> Gary Eickmeier

Yes.

[Clams Canino]

<azzure@olypen.com> wrote in message news:4231AAEF.7000104@olypen.com...
> Gary Eickmeier wrote:
> >
> >
> > Clams Canino wrote:
> >
> >> Why pull down?
> >>
> >> Make a permanant screen out of drapery "black-out cloth" and put up a
> >> cool
> >> set of drapes to cover it when not in use.
> >
> >
> > Does anyone out there understand this?
> >
> > Gary Eickmeier
>
> Yes.
>

OK - you're gonna make me type huh?

Build a sturdy little frame out of 1x2 and 4 little steel corner brackets
and 2 T brackets. The T brackets are for a center vertical strut to
strengthen the middle on the long span.

Then cover it with the white "black-out" cloth. This is a white material,
rubberized on one side, that is used as a lining for drapery to keep the
light from passing through.

People will debate all day whether to have it rubber or cloth side out (both
are white) so have at it. <EG> You gotta stretch it real good while staple
gunning it to the back of the frame. ( I used cloth side out)

Then drill six holes in the frame (at the 4 corners and at the T's in the
middle). Set up your shot PERFECTLY on the wall. For fixed offset PJ's that
are ceiling mounted,there is only one *correct* shot, find it with a tape
measure and a level. Then have two friends (or your wife and one child)
hold up the screen (it's real light) to *perfectly* match the shot. Quickly
drill six little holes in the wall through your pre-drilled holes in the
screen frame, do it fast so your human helpers don't wiggle. Install the
good screw-in plastic wall ancors in the 6 wall holes and then re-mount the
screen for keeps.

Lastly put up a set of draperies as though the screen were a picture window.
You can open and close them to use the screen, and can set them partly
closed when viewing a movie that was shot in 4/3 aspect film.

We did this in one afternoon, for under $100 drapes included. If you wish to
spend more money, or have need for a cloth width (height) greater than 54"
you can build the same frame and stuff and get some screen material from
Da-Lite. Still *way* cheaper than a pull down screen, and if the room is
dedicated to home theatre, it looks way cooler too.

In addition, I had a problem where my 4805 was shooting a bit too low on the
wall for my taste (it has a fixed offset drop). I tilted it up a bit to get
the height closer to my likeing. This of course introduced some keystoning
of the shot. You never wanna adjust keystone on the PJ - you lose pixels.
My answer was to use a second 1x2 behind the top rail of the screen. Tilting
the screen top out 1" corrected the keystoning and it's not at all noticable
in use. Project complete, reward: "The Empire Strikes Back" <GGG>

-W

[mossback]

Good idea but i had no wall space. My room orientation made the patio door
the best location for the screen. Worked much better to have a screen that
could be retracted when I want to use the door.


"Clams Canino" <nowayhose@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:CwjYd.1073$qf2.2@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink .net...
>
> <azzure@olypen.com> wrote in message news:4231AAEF.7000104@olypen.com...
>> Gary Eickmeier wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > Clams Canino wrote:
>> >
>> >> Why pull down?
>> >>
>> >> Make a permanant screen out of drapery "black-out cloth" and put up a
>> >> cool
>> >> set of drapes to cover it when not in use.
>> >
>> >
>> > Does anyone out there understand this?
>> >
>> > Gary Eickmeier
>>
>> Yes.
>>
>
> OK - you're gonna make me type huh?
>
> Build a sturdy little frame out of 1x2 and 4 little steel corner brackets
> and 2 T brackets. The T brackets are for a center vertical strut to
> strengthen the middle on the long span.
>
> Then cover it with the white "black-out" cloth. This is a white material,
> rubberized on one side, that is used as a lining for drapery to keep the
> light from passing through.
>
> People will debate all day whether to have it rubber or cloth side out
> (both
> are white) so have at it. <EG> You gotta stretch it real good while
> staple
> gunning it to the back of the frame. ( I used cloth side out)
>
> Then drill six holes in the frame (at the 4 corners and at the T's in the
> middle). Set up your shot PERFECTLY on the wall. For fixed offset PJ's
> that
> are ceiling mounted,there is only one *correct* shot, find it with a tape
> measure and a level. Then have two friends (or your wife and one child)
> hold up the screen (it's real light) to *perfectly* match the shot.
> Quickly
> drill six little holes in the wall through your pre-drilled holes in the
> screen frame, do it fast so your human helpers don't wiggle. Install the
> good screw-in plastic wall ancors in the 6 wall holes and then re-mount
> the
> screen for keeps.
>
> Lastly put up a set of draperies as though the screen were a picture
> window.
> You can open and close them to use the screen, and can set them partly
> closed when viewing a movie that was shot in 4/3 aspect film.
>
> We did this in one afternoon, for under $100 drapes included. If you wish
> to
> spend more money, or have need for a cloth width (height) greater than 54"
> you can build the same frame and stuff and get some screen material from
> Da-Lite. Still *way* cheaper than a pull down screen, and if the room is
> dedicated to home theatre, it looks way cooler too.
>
> In addition, I had a problem where my 4805 was shooting a bit too low on
> the
> wall for my taste (it has a fixed offset drop). I tilted it up a bit to
> get
> the height closer to my likeing. This of course introduced some keystoning
> of the shot. You never wanna adjust keystone on the PJ - you lose pixels.
> My answer was to use a second 1x2 behind the top rail of the screen.
> Tilting
> the screen top out 1" corrected the keystoning and it's not at all
> noticable
> in use. Project complete, reward: "The Empire Strikes Back" <GGG>
>
> -W
>
>

[Badger]

Not really a "theater" then is it?
Clay
"mossback" <rwelcher@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:6xDYd.134587$qB6.28835@tornado.tampabay.rr.co m...
> Good idea but i had no wall space. My room orientation made the
patio door
> the best location for the screen. Worked much better to have a
screen that
> could be retracted when I want to use the door.
>
>
> "Clams Canino" <nowayhose@nospam.net> wrote in message
> news:CwjYd.1073$qf2.2@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink .net...
> >
> > <azzure@olypen.com> wrote in message
news:4231AAEF.7000104@olypen.com...
> >> Gary Eickmeier wrote:
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Clams Canino wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> Why pull down?
> >> >>
> >> >> Make a permanant screen out of drapery "black-out cloth" and
put up a
> >> >> cool
> >> >> set of drapes to cover it when not in use.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Does anyone out there understand this?
> >> >
> >> > Gary Eickmeier
> >>
> >> Yes.
> >>
> >
> > OK - you're gonna make me type huh?
> >
> > Build a sturdy little frame out of 1x2 and 4 little steel corner
brackets
> > and 2 T brackets. The T brackets are for a center vertical strut
to
> > strengthen the middle on the long span.
> >
> > Then cover it with the white "black-out" cloth. This is a white
material,
> > rubberized on one side, that is used as a lining for drapery to
keep the
> > light from passing through.
> >
> > People will debate all day whether to have it rubber or cloth side
out
> > (both
> > are white) so have at it. <EG> You gotta stretch it real good
while
> > staple
> > gunning it to the back of the frame. ( I used cloth side out)
> >
> > Then drill six holes in the frame (at the 4 corners and at the T's
in the
> > middle). Set up your shot PERFECTLY on the wall. For fixed offset
PJ's
> > that
> > are ceiling mounted,there is only one *correct* shot, find it with
a tape
> > measure and a level. Then have two friends (or your wife and one
child)
> > hold up the screen (it's real light) to *perfectly* match the
shot.
> > Quickly
> > drill six little holes in the wall through your pre-drilled holes
in the
> > screen frame, do it fast so your human helpers don't wiggle.
Install the
> > good screw-in plastic wall ancors in the 6 wall holes and then
re-mount
> > the
> > screen for keeps.
> >
> > Lastly put up a set of draperies as though the screen were a
picture
> > window.
> > You can open and close them to use the screen, and can set them
partly
> > closed when viewing a movie that was shot in 4/3 aspect film.
> >
> > We did this in one afternoon, for under $100 drapes included. If
you wish
> > to
> > spend more money, or have need for a cloth width (height) greater
than 54"
> > you can build the same frame and stuff and get some screen
material from
> > Da-Lite. Still *way* cheaper than a pull down screen, and if the
room is
> > dedicated to home theatre, it looks way cooler too.
> >
> > In addition, I had a problem where my 4805 was shooting a bit too
low on
> > the
> > wall for my taste (it has a fixed offset drop). I tilted it up a
bit to
> > get
> > the height closer to my likeing. This of course introduced some
keystoning
> > of the shot. You never wanna adjust keystone on the PJ - you lose
pixels.
> > My answer was to use a second 1x2 behind the top rail of the
screen.
> > Tilting
> > the screen top out 1" corrected the keystoning and it's not at all
> > noticable
> > in use. Project complete, reward: "The Empire Strikes Back"
<GGG>
> >
> > -W
> >
> >
>
>