Modules not responding

[Steve Wechsler]

I recently purchased an X10 mini timer and 4 light switch modules.
Switches A & B were connected to my driveway and front door lights,
respectively; both are in the same 3 gang box. These can be controlled
by the timer when it is plugged into several different outlets
throughout the house.

Switch C is connected to an overhead light in my pool area, and switch
D is connected to a wall mounted light in the same general area (they
are on separate circuits, and could be on separate legs; I didn't
check). The switches for C & D are not near each other (they're at two
different entrances to the pool area). C can only be controlled when
the timer is plugged into an outlet nearby, in which case A, C and D
cannot be controlled. Similarly, D will only work when the timer is
plugged in near IT, but when I do that I can still control A & B
(unfortunately the location is not suitable for a timer installation).

This house is only about 5 years old and has standard 120/220V wiring.
The X10 tech support rep suggested line noise, but I can't imagine what
would be causing noise; all lights are incandescent; the only thing
that might be considered a little out of the ordinary is our Jandy
Aquaswitch pool & spa control system (among other things, it controls a
220V filter, which was running during the test). Other than that,
there's nothing unusual.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Steve

[BruceR]

Line noise/signal suckers can be caused by TV sets, PC's, surge
protectors, wireless intercoms, inductive chargers, halogen
transformers, the list goes on. The fix is to lower the water (noise)
or raise the bridge (signal strength). There are X10 specific filters
that can be used on various items to reduce the noise, couplers to
provide a better signal between legs and repeaters to raise the signal
level.
My recommendation is to use a coupler/repeater which is either
hardwired at the service panel or, if that's not practical, one that
plugs into a 220v dryer outlet. See www.smarthome.com for these
products.
For further reading see:
http://www.geocities.com/ido_bartana/
http://www.act-solutions.com/uncle.htm

From:Steve Wechsler
swechsler@bigfoot.com

> I recently purchased an X10 mini timer and 4 light switch modules.
> Switches A & B were connected to my driveway and front door lights,
> respectively; both are in the same 3 gang box. These can be controlled
> by the timer when it is plugged into several different outlets
> throughout the house.
>
> Switch C is connected to an overhead light in my pool area, and switch
> D is connected to a wall mounted light in the same general area (they
> are on separate circuits, and could be on separate legs; I didn't
> check). The switches for C & D are not near each other (they're at two
> different entrances to the pool area). C can only be controlled when
> the timer is plugged into an outlet nearby, in which case A, C and D
> cannot be controlled. Similarly, D will only work when the timer is
> plugged in near IT, but when I do that I can still control A & B
> (unfortunately the location is not suitable for a timer installation).
>
> This house is only about 5 years old and has standard 120/220V wiring.
> The X10 tech support rep suggested line noise, but I can't imagine
> what would be causing noise; all lights are incandescent; the only
> thing that might be considered a little out of the ordinary is our
> Jandy Aquaswitch pool & spa control system (among other things, it
> controls a 220V filter, which was running during the test). Other
> than that, there's nothing unusual.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve

[Mitch]

BruceR wrote:
> Line noise/signal suckers can be caused by TV sets, PC's, surge
> protectors, wireless intercoms, inductive chargers, halogen
> transformers, the list goes on. The fix is to lower the water (noise)
> or raise the bridge (signal strength). There are X10 specific filters
> that can be used on various items to reduce the noise, couplers to
> provide a better signal between legs and repeaters to raise the signal
> level.
> My recommendation is to use a coupler/repeater which is either
> hardwired at the service panel or, if that's not practical, one that
> plugs into a 220v dryer outlet. See www.smarthome.com for these
> products.
> For further reading see:
> http://www.geocities.com/ido_bartana/
> http://www.act-solutions.com/uncle.htm
>
> From:Steve Wechsler
> swechsler@bigfoot.com
>
>
>>I recently purchased an X10 mini timer and 4 light switch modules.
>>Switches A & B were connected to my driveway and front door lights,
>>respectively; both are in the same 3 gang box. These can be controlled
>>by the timer when it is plugged into several different outlets
>>throughout the house.
>>
>>Switch C is connected to an overhead light in my pool area, and switch
>>D is connected to a wall mounted light in the same general area (they
>>are on separate circuits, and could be on separate legs; I didn't
>>check). The switches for C & D are not near each other (they're at two
>>different entrances to the pool area). C can only be controlled when
>>the timer is plugged into an outlet nearby, in which case A, C and D
>>cannot be controlled. Similarly, D will only work when the timer is
>>plugged in near IT, but when I do that I can still control A & B
>>(unfortunately the location is not suitable for a timer installation).
>>
>>This house is only about 5 years old and has standard 120/220V wiring.
>>The X10 tech support rep suggested line noise, but I can't imagine
>>what would be causing noise; all lights are incandescent; the only
>>thing that might be considered a little out of the ordinary is our
>>Jandy Aquaswitch pool & spa control system (among other things, it
>>controls a 220V filter, which was running during the test). Other
>>than that, there's nothing unusual.
>>
>>Any ideas?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Steve
>
>
>
Sounds like A, B and D are on one leg and C is on another. Put in a
coupler.

[BruceR]

Couplers are fine to a point but any home over 2000sf will benefit from
the repeater. At less than $75, the $40 extra for the repeater vs the
$35 for a coupler will justify itself in terms of more reliable
operation as things change in a house.

From:Mitch
sumcoolgai@yahoo.com

> BruceR wrote:
>> Line noise/signal suckers can be caused by TV sets, PC's, surge
>> protectors, wireless intercoms, inductive chargers, halogen
>> transformers, the list goes on. The fix is to lower the water
>> (noise) or raise the bridge (signal strength). There are X10
>> specific filters that can be used on various items to reduce the
>> noise, couplers to provide a better signal between legs and
>> repeaters to raise the signal level.
>> My recommendation is to use a coupler/repeater which is either
>> hardwired at the service panel or, if that's not practical, one that
>> plugs into a 220v dryer outlet. See www.smarthome.com for these
>> products.
>> For further reading see:
>> http://www.geocities.com/ido_bartana/
>> http://www.act-solutions.com/uncle.htm
>>
>> From:Steve Wechsler
>> swechsler@bigfoot.com
>>
>>
>>> I recently purchased an X10 mini timer and 4 light switch modules.
>>> Switches A & B were connected to my driveway and front door lights,
>>> respectively; both are in the same 3 gang box. These can be
>>> controlled by the timer when it is plugged into several different
>>> outlets throughout the house.
>>>
>>> Switch C is connected to an overhead light in my pool area, and
>>> switch D is connected to a wall mounted light in the same general
>>> area (they are on separate circuits, and could be on separate legs;
>>> I didn't check). The switches for C & D are not near each other
>>> (they're at two different entrances to the pool area). C can only
>>> be controlled when the timer is plugged into an outlet nearby, in
>>> which case A, C and D cannot be controlled. Similarly, D will only
>>> work when the timer is plugged in near IT, but when I do that I can
>>> still control A & B (unfortunately the location is not suitable for
>>> a timer installation). This house is only about 5 years old and has
>>> standard 120/220V
>>> wiring. The X10 tech support rep suggested line noise, but I can't
>>> imagine what would be causing noise; all lights are incandescent;
>>> the only thing that might be considered a little out of the
>>> ordinary is our Jandy Aquaswitch pool & spa control system (among
>>> other things, it controls a 220V filter, which was running during
>>> the test). Other than that, there's nothing unusual.
>>>
>>> Any ideas?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Steve
>>
>>
>>
> Sounds like A, B and D are on one leg and C is on another. Put in a
> coupler.

[Steve Wechsler]

That's what first occurred to me, until I couldn't get D to work with a
controller near A&B, even though A&B when the controller was near D.