View Full Version : better than TM751?????
MikyMike
24-01-2005, 11:41 AM
Hi,
which Wireless Transceiver Module is more reliable than the TM751?
I have some problem with the tm751, when i dim light using remote
control, the light dim in big step.. i can dim it in 7 or 8...
I`m pretty sure it must be the poor TM751 design...
Brian
24-01-2005, 11:41 AM
The best is WGL800RF32A if you have computer software control if not
V572AB
--
Brian Dye
-------------------------------------
brian@tech-home.com
http://tech-home.com
"MikyMike" <abcdef70@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4hcpu0dkfk44a6i05fnp020fbaki8ock0l@4ax.com...
> Hi,
> which Wireless Transceiver Module is more reliable than the TM751?
>
> I have some problem with the tm751, when i dim light using remote
> control, the light dim in big step.. i can dim it in 7 or 8...
>
> I`m pretty sure it must be the poor TM751 design...
MikyMike
24-01-2005, 11:41 AM
I can`t find the WGL800RF32A. is it the model number? or maybe there
some space missing in it??
On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 07:49:56 GMT, "Brian" <brian@tech-home.com> wrote:
>The best is WGL800RF32A if you have computer software control if not
>
>V572AB
Brian
24-01-2005, 11:41 AM
http://www.tech-home.com/store/index.php3?cat=350603&item=992778
--
Brian Dye
-------------------------------------
brian@tech-home.com
http://tech-home.com
"MikyMike" <abcdef70@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:jphpu01korso062k2hfrfccu4c3hanc3v4@4ax.com...
>
> I can`t find the WGL800RF32A. is it the model number? or maybe there
> some space missing in it??
>
>
>
> On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 07:49:56 GMT, "Brian" <brian@tech-home.com> wrote:
>
>>The best is WGL800RF32A if you have computer software control if not
>>
>>V572AB
>
MikyMike wrote:
> I can`t find the WGL800RF32A. is it the model number? or maybe there
> some space missing in it??
>
>
>
> On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 07:49:56 GMT, "Brian" <brian@tech-home.com> wrote:
>
>
>>The best is WGL800RF32A if you have computer software control if not
>>
>>V572AB
>
>
I can vouch for the WGL800RF32A quality, it works fantastic, gets a
better range than my MR26A (most people seem to have the same
experience), and supports the X10 security devices. The only decision
you have to make is if you want to use it as a computer interface, or a
stand alone interface.
dan
Dan Lanciani
24-01-2005, 11:41 AM
In article <4hcpu0dkfk44a6i05fnp020fbaki8ock0l@4ax.com>, abcdef70@hotmail.com (MikyMike) writes:
| which Wireless Transceiver Module is more reliable than the TM751?
|
| I have some problem with the tm751, when i dim light using remote
| control, the light dim in big step.. i can dim it in 7 or 8...
|
| I`m pretty sure it must be the poor TM751 design...
Well, obviously I'm biased, but I think the best replacement is an RR501
running my custom firmware available from the home automation page of
www.danlan.com. It fixes the dimming problem and supports any combination
of house codes. Unfortunately, you have to do some soldering to use it...
Dan Lanciani
ddl@danlan.*com
I use both a BX24AHT and the WGL800. Both have an amplified egg beater
antenna mounted in the attic and they both cover an area of 4-5 acres
without any problems. I preferred the BX24 but the support for my HS
software has been unsupported for about a year.
Don
"Dan Lanciani" <ddl@danlan.*com> wrote in message
news:1331311@news1.IPSWITCHS.CMM...
> In article <4hcpu0dkfk44a6i05fnp020fbaki8ock0l@4ax.com>,
> abcdef70@hotmail.com (MikyMike) writes:
>
> | which Wireless Transceiver Module is more reliable than the TM751?
> |
> | I have some problem with the tm751, when i dim light using remote
> | control, the light dim in big step.. i can dim it in 7 or 8...
> |
> | I`m pretty sure it must be the poor TM751 design...
>
> Well, obviously I'm biased, but I think the best replacement is an RR501
> running my custom firmware available from the home automation page of
> www.danlan.com. It fixes the dimming problem and supports any combination
> of house codes. Unfortunately, you have to do some soldering to use it...
>
> Dan Lanciani
> ddl@danlan.*com
Charles Sullivan
24-01-2005, 11:41 AM
On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 01:54:24 -0500, MikyMike wrote:
> Hi,
> which Wireless Transceiver Module is more reliable than the TM751?
>
> I have some problem with the tm751, when i dim light using remote
> control, the light dim in big step.. i can dim it in 7 or 8...
>
> I`m pretty sure it must be the poor TM751 design...
You're putting _all_ the blame on the wrong horse - the
problem is equally likely due to your remote.
There are two factors at play here:
1. Different remotes send a different minimum number of RF
signal repetitions with the quickest possible tap on the
button. Newer PalmPads and the UR81A Universal Remote
send a minimum of 6 RF repetitions.
Very old PalmPads and the X10 SS13A "Stick-a-Switch" can
send as few as one. The Firecracker dongle always
sends a minimum of 5 RF repetitions.
2. Different transceivers accept different
numbers of RF repetitions before they
transmit the next higher level of Dims over
the power line.
Here's some data I measured with a SS13A:
Dim level sent by
RF transceiver (percent)
Repeats RR501 CM15A TM751*
------- ----- ----- -----
1 6% 6% 12%
2 6 12 12
3 6 12 12
4 12 15 12
5 12 18 12
6 17 22 12 <===
7 22 25 12
8 22 28 24
9 27 30 24
10 27 34 24
14 - - 24
15 - - 36
(*) The TM751 sends out one 12% dim for every
so many repeats or fraction thereof - at least the
unit I have in hand right now labeled P10485B.
So if you're using a PalmPad (6 repeats minimum),
the first step will be worse with a RR501 (17%)
or CM15A (22%), than with a TM751 (12%).
However holding down the PalmPad button for
appropriately longer times can give you smaller
subsequent steps with a RR501 or CM15A.
(The RF repetitions were counted by observing
the raw output of an X10 MR26A receiver
connected to a serial port. The dims were
monitored with a CM11A.)
Regards,
Charles Sullivan
MikyMike
24-01-2005, 11:41 AM
I've tried with a UR19 remote, i've tried with a palmpad, I've also
tried with the firecracker interface (from the spec, it's supposed to
dim the light by 5% increment).
Whatever the remote i use, i always got the same thing, i can
dim/bright the light from 100% to 0% in 7 step, no mather the speed
pushing button. If i push the button once, the change in the dim is
really big.
I'm not sure to understand what you mean by RF repetitions.. And i'm
still not sure of what i must do to have a proper dimming control.
I've think to use the computer only to control the light, if it's the
only solution to have a decent dimming control, but it's surely not
with the firecracker interface...
Can you specify what i must use, to have a proper control of the
dimming?
thank-you.
On Wed, 19 Jan 2005 07:34:52 GMT, Charles Sullivan
<cwsulliv@triad.rr.com> wrote:
>On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 01:54:24 -0500, MikyMike wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>> which Wireless Transceiver Module is more reliable than the TM751?
>>
>> I have some problem with the tm751, when i dim light using remote
>> control, the light dim in big step.. i can dim it in 7 or 8...
>>
>> I`m pretty sure it must be the poor TM751 design...
>
>You're putting _all_ the blame on the wrong horse - the
>problem is equally likely due to your remote.
>
>There are two factors at play here:
>
>1. Different remotes send a different minimum number of RF
>signal repetitions with the quickest possible tap on the
>button. Newer PalmPads and the UR81A Universal Remote
>send a minimum of 6 RF repetitions.
>
>Very old PalmPads and the X10 SS13A "Stick-a-Switch" can
>send as few as one. The Firecracker dongle always
>sends a minimum of 5 RF repetitions.
>
>2. Different transceivers accept different
>numbers of RF repetitions before they
>transmit the next higher level of Dims over
>the power line.
>
>Here's some data I measured with a SS13A:
>
> Dim level sent by
>RF transceiver (percent)
>Repeats RR501 CM15A TM751*
>------- ----- ----- -----
> 1 6% 6% 12%
> 2 6 12 12
> 3 6 12 12
> 4 12 15 12
> 5 12 18 12
> 6 17 22 12 <===
> 7 22 25 12
> 8 22 28 24
> 9 27 30 24
>10 27 34 24
>14 - - 24
>15 - - 36
>
>(*) The TM751 sends out one 12% dim for every
>so many repeats or fraction thereof - at least the
>unit I have in hand right now labeled P10485B.
>
>So if you're using a PalmPad (6 repeats minimum),
>the first step will be worse with a RR501 (17%)
>or CM15A (22%), than with a TM751 (12%).
>However holding down the PalmPad button for
>appropriately longer times can give you smaller
>subsequent steps with a RR501 or CM15A.
>
>(The RF repetitions were counted by observing
>the raw output of an X10 MR26A receiver
>connected to a serial port. The dims were
>monitored with a CM11A.)
>
>Regards,
>Charles Sullivan
>
Dave Houston
24-01-2005, 11:41 AM
The TM751 has a minimum dim step of 12%. The RR501 has a minimum step of
12-18%. The CM15A has a minimum step of 12%. The Leviton HCPRF has a minimum
step of 12%. These are independent of the remote (except for the extra 6%
step of the RR501).
Most X-10 remotes and other X-10 RF transmitters send a minimum of five
copies of the RF code. The SH624 and some of the universal remotes can send
single copies if you press/release the button quickly. However, all of the
transceivers will still send a 12% dim to the powerline even with a single
RF copy.
I made this a user setting (6% or 12%) with the BX24-AHT (no longer
available). Dan Lanciani has implied that his replacement PIC for the RR501
uses 6% steps but I don't recall seeing this stated explicitly. I don't
think it's worthwhile to replace the RR501 PIC as it will still have poor RF
range.
There is no way to get less than 6% steps using standard dims. You can get
~3% (1/32) steps using preset dims, or ~1.5% (1/64) but no X-10 remotes send
these codes as RF and no standard X-10 transceivers respond to them. I did
include these in the BX24-AHT but it required a programmable remote (e.g.
Pronto) although, since the BX24-AHT allowed users to redefine the response
to RF codes, it was possible to have it send preset or extended dims in
response to a standard RF code.
I am hoping to build all of the features of the BX24-AHT into a plug'n'play
daughterboard that replaces the microcontroller in the CM15A but I'm still
trying to decide on the PIC to use. The PIC18F252 looks good for a serial
version and the PIC18F2550 is now shipping for USB but both need a crystal
or resonator for the oscillator and, given that I want to avoid any
soldering for the user, space is extremely limited. The PIC18F2620 has an
internal oscillator (and more memory) but there's no USB equivalent.
MikyMike <abcdef70@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>I've tried with a UR19 remote, i've tried with a palmpad, I've also
>tried with the firecracker interface (from the spec, it's supposed to
>dim the light by 5% increment).
>
>Whatever the remote i use, i always got the same thing, i can
>dim/bright the light from 100% to 0% in 7 step, no mather the speed
>pushing button. If i push the button once, the change in the dim is
>really big.
>
>I'm not sure to understand what you mean by RF repetitions.. And i'm
>still not sure of what i must do to have a proper dimming control.
>I've think to use the computer only to control the light, if it's the
>only solution to have a decent dimming control, but it's surely not
>with the firecracker interface...
>
>Can you specify what i must use, to have a proper control of the
>dimming?
>
>thank-you.
>
>On Wed, 19 Jan 2005 07:34:52 GMT, Charles Sullivan
><cwsulliv@triad.rr.com> wrote:
>
>>On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 01:54:24 -0500, MikyMike wrote:
>>
>>> Hi,
>>> which Wireless Transceiver Module is more reliable than the TM751?
>>>
>>> I have some problem with the tm751, when i dim light using remote
>>> control, the light dim in big step.. i can dim it in 7 or 8...
>>>
>>> I`m pretty sure it must be the poor TM751 design...
>>
>>You're putting _all_ the blame on the wrong horse - the
>>problem is equally likely due to your remote.
>>
>>There are two factors at play here:
>>
>>1. Different remotes send a different minimum number of RF
>>signal repetitions with the quickest possible tap on the
>>button. Newer PalmPads and the UR81A Universal Remote
>>send a minimum of 6 RF repetitions.
>>
>>Very old PalmPads and the X10 SS13A "Stick-a-Switch" can
>>send as few as one. The Firecracker dongle always
>>sends a minimum of 5 RF repetitions.
>>
>>2. Different transceivers accept different
>>numbers of RF repetitions before they
>>transmit the next higher level of Dims over
>>the power line.
>>
>>Here's some data I measured with a SS13A:
>>
>> Dim level sent by
>>RF transceiver (percent)
>>Repeats RR501 CM15A TM751*
>>------- ----- ----- -----
>> 1 6% 6% 12%
>> 2 6 12 12
>> 3 6 12 12
>> 4 12 15 12
>> 5 12 18 12
>> 6 17 22 12 <===
>> 7 22 25 12
>> 8 22 28 24
>> 9 27 30 24
>>10 27 34 24
>>14 - - 24
>>15 - - 36
>>
>>(*) The TM751 sends out one 12% dim for every
>>so many repeats or fraction thereof - at least the
>>unit I have in hand right now labeled P10485B.
>>
>>So if you're using a PalmPad (6 repeats minimum),
>>the first step will be worse with a RR501 (17%)
>>or CM15A (22%), than with a TM751 (12%).
>>However holding down the PalmPad button for
>>appropriately longer times can give you smaller
>>subsequent steps with a RR501 or CM15A.
>>
>>(The RF repetitions were counted by observing
>>the raw output of an X10 MR26A receiver
>>connected to a serial port. The dims were
>>monitored with a CM11A.)
>>
>>Regards,
>>Charles Sullivan
>>
Charles Sullivan
24-01-2005, 11:41 AM
Regarding RF repetitions: When you give the quickest possible
push on your PalmPad button you'll see the little red LED flicker
a few times. I haven't verified there's an exact correlation,
but it appears that the RF signal is sent once for each flash
of the LED. An MR26A RF receiver shows that the PalmPad transmits
the RF signal a minimum of 6 times for that quickest possible push on
the button.
By contrast, a much older remote, in this case a Radio Shack
"Plug-N-Power" branded unit which is about 7 years old, flashes
the LED only once for a quick tap on the button, and the MR26A
shows the RF signal transmitted only once. The same thing happens
with a new X10 SS13A "Stick-A-Switch" - one flash, one RF signal.
Dave Houston measured the minimum dim for a RR501 as 12%
whereas I measured 6% (for a single RF signal). The difference
is in the age of the RR501. I resurrected a RR501 which is
about 7 years old and the minimum dim for that unit is indeed
12%, but is in fact 6% for my newer RR501 which is about
6 months old.
X10 has a tendancy to make firmware changes without indicating
that fact. To the extent that changes would have to be registered
with the FCC, here are the registration numbers:
Old Radio Shack Plug-N-Power FCC ID: B4SSWFX-10-RT504
New PalmPad FCC ID: B4SSR12A
The only thing I can suggest to get over that first big dim
step without using the PC is to get a newer RR501 and a SS13A
Stick-A-Switch. However each SS13A controls only 3 units.
There may be remotes and transceivers from other manufacturers
which do what you want, but I have no data.
Regards,
Charles Sullivan
On Thu, 20 Jan 2005 04:11:55 -0500, MikyMike wrote:
>
>
> I've tried with a UR19 remote, i've tried with a palmpad, I've also
> tried with the firecracker interface (from the spec, it's supposed to
> dim the light by 5% increment).
>
> Whatever the remote i use, i always got the same thing, i can
> dim/bright the light from 100% to 0% in 7 step, no mather the speed
> pushing button. If i push the button once, the change in the dim is
> really big.
>
> I'm not sure to understand what you mean by RF repetitions.. And i'm
> still not sure of what i must do to have a proper dimming control.
> I've think to use the computer only to control the light, if it's the
> only solution to have a decent dimming control, but it's surely not
> with the firecracker interface...
>
> Can you specify what i must use, to have a proper control of the
> dimming?
>
> thank-you.
>
> On Wed, 19 Jan 2005 07:34:52 GMT, Charles Sullivan
> <cwsulliv@triad.rr.com> wrote:
>
>>On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 01:54:24 -0500, MikyMike wrote:
>>
>>> Hi,
>>> which Wireless Transceiver Module is more reliable than the TM751?
>>>
>>> I have some problem with the tm751, when i dim light using remote
>>> control, the light dim in big step.. i can dim it in 7 or 8...
>>>
>>> I`m pretty sure it must be the poor TM751 design...
>>
>>You're putting _all_ the blame on the wrong horse - the
>>problem is equally likely due to your remote.
>>
>>There are two factors at play here:
>>
>>1. Different remotes send a different minimum number of RF
>>signal repetitions with the quickest possible tap on the
>>button. Newer PalmPads and the UR81A Universal Remote
>>send a minimum of 6 RF repetitions.
>>
>>Very old PalmPads and the X10 SS13A "Stick-a-Switch" can
>>send as few as one. The Firecracker dongle always
>>sends a minimum of 5 RF repetitions.
>>
>>2. Different transceivers accept different
>>numbers of RF repetitions before they
>>transmit the next higher level of Dims over
>>the power line.
>>
>>Here's some data I measured with a SS13A:
>>
>> Dim level sent by
>>RF transceiver (percent)
>>Repeats RR501 CM15A TM751*
>>------- ----- ----- -----
>> 1 6% 6% 12%
>> 2 6 12 12
>> 3 6 12 12
>> 4 12 15 12
>> 5 12 18 12
>> 6 17 22 12 <===
>> 7 22 25 12
>> 8 22 28 24
>> 9 27 30 24
>>10 27 34 24
>>14 - - 24
>>15 - - 36
>>
>>(*) The TM751 sends out one 12% dim for every
>>so many repeats or fraction thereof - at least the
>>unit I have in hand right now labeled P10485B.
>>
>>So if you're using a PalmPad (6 repeats minimum),
>>the first step will be worse with a RR501 (17%)
>>or CM15A (22%), than with a TM751 (12%).
>>However holding down the PalmPad button for
>>appropriately longer times can give you smaller
>>subsequent steps with a RR501 or CM15A.
>>
>>(The RF repetitions were counted by observing
>>the raw output of an X10 MR26A receiver
>>connected to a serial port. The dims were
>>monitored with a CM11A.)
>>
>>Regards,
>>Charles Sullivan
>>
MikyMike
24-01-2005, 11:41 AM
Thanks Dave for your great explanation.
I'm a little bit disapointed by X10 product. At least the ones that I
have.
It appears that using a remote is not the best way to go about it, so
i wonder, if i use only the computer to control the lights will I be
able to have proper dimming.
I don't need a huge range (distance) because everything is in the same
room - light, remote, computer, and so on... it's for a home theater
room.
If I can use the computer to control the lights with a decent dimming
effect (at least 6% dimming is already better than 12% or 18%...) it
will be ok for me. I can forget about controlling by remote using
RF...
My computer is used as a personal video recorder, and have an IR
remote control for the playback/record part... maybe I could map a
couple of buttons to dim and raise lights, and simply use the computer
to send dim/raise to the lights, instead of using RF remote and with
RF receiver...
I don`t need an exhaustive control of X10, I usually use the following
levels of light:
100%, and 0% (ON,OFF)
70% and 30%, to create ambiance lightning...
If scene dimming gives a better feel, maybe I could preset some
dimming scenes, like "dim to70%" or "to 30%", map a button for each
dimming preset, then simply tell the CM11A or any other controller to
execute these presets...
Do you know the dimming step (percents) and dimming scene capabilities
of the CM11A, CM15A, 1138U and so on???
Which one is best??
_____________________________
On Thu, 20 Jan 2005 12:11:37 GMT, nobody@whocares.com (Dave Houston)
wrote:
>The TM751 has a minimum dim step of 12%. The RR501 has a minimum step of
>12-18%. The CM15A has a minimum step of 12%. The Leviton HCPRF has a minimum
>step of 12%. These are independent of the remote (except for the extra 6%
>step of the RR501).
>
>Most X-10 remotes and other X-10 RF transmitters send a minimum of five
>copies of the RF code. The SH624 and some of the universal remotes can send
>single copies if you press/release the button quickly. However, all of the
>transceivers will still send a 12% dim to the powerline even with a single
>RF copy.
>
>I made this a user setting (6% or 12%) with the BX24-AHT (no longer
>available). Dan Lanciani has implied that his replacement PIC for the RR501
>uses 6% steps but I don't recall seeing this stated explicitly. I don't
>think it's worthwhile to replace the RR501 PIC as it will still have poor RF
>range.
>
>There is no way to get less than 6% steps using standard dims. You can get
>~3% (1/32) steps using preset dims, or ~1.5% (1/64) but no X-10 remotes send
>these codes as RF and no standard X-10 transceivers respond to them. I did
>include these in the BX24-AHT but it required a programmable remote (e.g.
>Pronto) although, since the BX24-AHT allowed users to redefine the response
>to RF codes, it was possible to have it send preset or extended dims in
>response to a standard RF code.
>
>I am hoping to build all of the features of the BX24-AHT into a plug'n'play
>daughterboard that replaces the microcontroller in the CM15A but I'm still
>trying to decide on the PIC to use. The PIC18F252 looks good for a serial
>version and the PIC18F2550 is now shipping for USB but both need a crystal
>or resonator for the oscillator and, given that I want to avoid any
>soldering for the user, space is extremely limited. The PIC18F2620 has an
>internal oscillator (and more memory) but there's no USB equivalent.
>
>MikyMike <abcdef70@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>I've tried with a UR19 remote, i've tried with a palmpad, I've also
>>tried with the firecracker interface (from the spec, it's supposed to
>>dim the light by 5% increment).
>>
>>Whatever the remote i use, i always got the same thing, i can
>>dim/bright the light from 100% to 0% in 7 step, no mather the speed
>>pushing button. If i push the button once, the change in the dim is
>>really big.
>>
>>I'm not sure to understand what you mean by RF repetitions.. And i'm
>>still not sure of what i must do to have a proper dimming control.
>>I've think to use the computer only to control the light, if it's the
>>only solution to have a decent dimming control, but it's surely not
>>with the firecracker interface...
>>
>>Can you specify what i must use, to have a proper control of the
>>dimming?
>>
>>thank-you.
>>
>>On Wed, 19 Jan 2005 07:34:52 GMT, Charles Sullivan
>><cwsulliv@triad.rr.com> wrote:
>>
>>>On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 01:54:24 -0500, MikyMike wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi,
>>>> which Wireless Transceiver Module is more reliable than the TM751?
>>>>
>>>> I have some problem with the tm751, when i dim light using remote
>>>> control, the light dim in big step.. i can dim it in 7 or 8...
>>>>
>>>> I`m pretty sure it must be the poor TM751 design...
>>>
>>>You're putting _all_ the blame on the wrong horse - the
>>>problem is equally likely due to your remote.
>>>
>>>There are two factors at play here:
>>>
>>>1. Different remotes send a different minimum number of RF
>>>signal repetitions with the quickest possible tap on the
>>>button. Newer PalmPads and the UR81A Universal Remote
>>>send a minimum of 6 RF repetitions.
>>>
>>>Very old PalmPads and the X10 SS13A "Stick-a-Switch" can
>>>send as few as one. The Firecracker dongle always
>>>sends a minimum of 5 RF repetitions.
>>>
>>>2. Different transceivers accept different
>>>numbers of RF repetitions before they
>>>transmit the next higher level of Dims over
>>>the power line.
>>>
>>>Here's some data I measured with a SS13A:
>>>
>>> Dim level sent by
>>>RF transceiver (percent)
>>>Repeats RR501 CM15A TM751*
>>>------- ----- ----- -----
>>> 1 6% 6% 12%
>>> 2 6 12 12
>>> 3 6 12 12
>>> 4 12 15 12
>>> 5 12 18 12
>>> 6 17 22 12 <===
>>> 7 22 25 12
>>> 8 22 28 24
>>> 9 27 30 24
>>>10 27 34 24
>>>14 - - 24
>>>15 - - 36
>>>
>>>(*) The TM751 sends out one 12% dim for every
>>>so many repeats or fraction thereof - at least the
>>>unit I have in hand right now labeled P10485B.
>>>
>>>So if you're using a PalmPad (6 repeats minimum),
>>>the first step will be worse with a RR501 (17%)
>>>or CM15A (22%), than with a TM751 (12%).
>>>However holding down the PalmPad button for
>>>appropriately longer times can give you smaller
>>>subsequent steps with a RR501 or CM15A.
>>>
>>>(The RF repetitions were counted by observing
>>>the raw output of an X10 MR26A receiver
>>>connected to a serial port. The dims were
>>>monitored with a CM11A.)
>>>
>>>Regards,
>>>Charles Sullivan
>>>
>
Dave Houston
24-01-2005, 11:41 AM
A standard lamp module or switch will dim in 6% steps using any of the
computer controlled X-10 interfaces.
The LM14A and several Leviton switches will respond to extended commands -
64 dim levels which can be set directly.
Many of the SmartHome modules and switches will respond to preset dim
commands - 32 dim levels which can be set directly. (I've had problems with
these.)
I think the CM11A is stable. The CM15A hardware is excellent but X-10 is
still screwing with the firmware and software. I'm not sure what you mean by
1138U - if it's the SmartHome interface, my personal experience with their
products has been poor. Most of those who say nice things about them have a
financial interest in saying nice things about them so I give them little
credence.
If you have software that can control the CM11A in response to IR commands,
this might be the best way to go.
Or, you might consider the IR543AH. You can buy it for about $60 from
Baran-Harper. It can handle preset and extended dims but you will need a
programmable remote (e.g. Pronto, Home Theater Master, PDA) to send the
needed codes. I think it does 6% steps for standard dims but I may be
mis-remembering. Most IR remotes can send the standard codes.
Scenes are a function of the lamp module or switch not of the controller.
The LM14A and many Leviton switches have scene capability. PCS switches and
most of the SmartHome modules and switches also do scenes. Details vary.
This app note explains things briefly (if you follow all of the embedded
links).
http://www.mbx-usa.com/compare.htm
MikyMike <abcdef70@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>Thanks Dave for your great explanation.
>
>I'm a little bit disapointed by X10 product. At least the ones that I
>have.
>
>It appears that using a remote is not the best way to go about it, so
>i wonder, if i use only the computer to control the lights will I be
>able to have proper dimming.
>
>I don't need a huge range (distance) because everything is in the same
>room - light, remote, computer, and so on... it's for a home theater
>room.
>
>If I can use the computer to control the lights with a decent dimming
>effect (at least 6% dimming is already better than 12% or 18%...) it
>will be ok for me. I can forget about controlling by remote using
>RF...
>
>My computer is used as a personal video recorder, and have an IR
>remote control for the playback/record part... maybe I could map a
>couple of buttons to dim and raise lights, and simply use the computer
>to send dim/raise to the lights, instead of using RF remote and with
>RF receiver...
>
>I don`t need an exhaustive control of X10, I usually use the following
>levels of light:
>
>100%, and 0% (ON,OFF)
>70% and 30%, to create ambiance lightning...
>
>If scene dimming gives a better feel, maybe I could preset some
>dimming scenes, like "dim to70%" or "to 30%", map a button for each
>dimming preset, then simply tell the CM11A or any other controller to
>execute these presets...
>
>
>Do you know the dimming step (percents) and dimming scene capabilities
>of the CM11A, CM15A, 1138U and so on???
>
>Which one is best??
>_____________________________
>
>On Thu, 20 Jan 2005 12:11:37 GMT, nobody@whocares.com (Dave Houston)
>wrote:
>
>>The TM751 has a minimum dim step of 12%. The RR501 has a minimum step of
>>12-18%. The CM15A has a minimum step of 12%. The Leviton HCPRF has a minimum
>>step of 12%. These are independent of the remote (except for the extra 6%
>>step of the RR501).
>>
>>Most X-10 remotes and other X-10 RF transmitters send a minimum of five
>>copies of the RF code. The SH624 and some of the universal remotes can send
>>single copies if you press/release the button quickly. However, all of the
>>transceivers will still send a 12% dim to the powerline even with a single
>>RF copy.
>>
>>I made this a user setting (6% or 12%) with the BX24-AHT (no longer
>>available). Dan Lanciani has implied that his replacement PIC for the RR501
>>uses 6% steps but I don't recall seeing this stated explicitly. I don't
>>think it's worthwhile to replace the RR501 PIC as it will still have poor RF
>>range.
>>
>>There is no way to get less than 6% steps using standard dims. You can get
>>~3% (1/32) steps using preset dims, or ~1.5% (1/64) but no X-10 remotes send
>>these codes as RF and no standard X-10 transceivers respond to them. I did
>>include these in the BX24-AHT but it required a programmable remote (e.g.
>>Pronto) although, since the BX24-AHT allowed users to redefine the response
>>to RF codes, it was possible to have it send preset or extended dims in
>>response to a standard RF code.
>>
>>I am hoping to build all of the features of the BX24-AHT into a plug'n'play
>>daughterboard that replaces the microcontroller in the CM15A but I'm still
>>trying to decide on the PIC to use. The PIC18F252 looks good for a serial
>>version and the PIC18F2550 is now shipping for USB but both need a crystal
>>or resonator for the oscillator and, given that I want to avoid any
>>soldering for the user, space is extremely limited. The PIC18F2620 has an
>>internal oscillator (and more memory) but there's no USB equivalent.
>>
>>MikyMike <abcdef70@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>I've tried with a UR19 remote, i've tried with a palmpad, I've also
>>>tried with the firecracker interface (from the spec, it's supposed to
>>>dim the light by 5% increment).
>>>
>>>Whatever the remote i use, i always got the same thing, i can
>>>dim/bright the light from 100% to 0% in 7 step, no mather the speed
>>>pushing button. If i push the button once, the change in the dim is
>>>really big.
>>>
>>>I'm not sure to understand what you mean by RF repetitions.. And i'm
>>>still not sure of what i must do to have a proper dimming control.
>>>I've think to use the computer only to control the light, if it's the
>>>only solution to have a decent dimming control, but it's surely not
>>>with the firecracker interface...
>>>
>>>Can you specify what i must use, to have a proper control of the
>>>dimming?
>>>
>>>thank-you.
>>>
>>>On Wed, 19 Jan 2005 07:34:52 GMT, Charles Sullivan
>>><cwsulliv@triad.rr.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>>On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 01:54:24 -0500, MikyMike wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hi,
>>>>> which Wireless Transceiver Module is more reliable than the TM751?
>>>>>
>>>>> I have some problem with the tm751, when i dim light using remote
>>>>> control, the light dim in big step.. i can dim it in 7 or 8...
>>>>>
>>>>> I`m pretty sure it must be the poor TM751 design...
>>>>
>>>>You're putting _all_ the blame on the wrong horse - the
>>>>problem is equally likely due to your remote.
>>>>
>>>>There are two factors at play here:
>>>>
>>>>1. Different remotes send a different minimum number of RF
>>>>signal repetitions with the quickest possible tap on the
>>>>button. Newer PalmPads and the UR81A Universal Remote
>>>>send a minimum of 6 RF repetitions.
>>>>
>>>>Very old PalmPads and the X10 SS13A "Stick-a-Switch" can
>>>>send as few as one. The Firecracker dongle always
>>>>sends a minimum of 5 RF repetitions.
>>>>
>>>>2. Different transceivers accept different
>>>>numbers of RF repetitions before they
>>>>transmit the next higher level of Dims over
>>>>the power line.
>>>>
>>>>Here's some data I measured with a SS13A:
>>>>
>>>> Dim level sent by
>>>>RF transceiver (percent)
>>>>Repeats RR501 CM15A TM751*
>>>>------- ----- ----- -----
>>>> 1 6% 6% 12%
>>>> 2 6 12 12
>>>> 3 6 12 12
>>>> 4 12 15 12
>>>> 5 12 18 12
>>>> 6 17 22 12 <===
>>>> 7 22 25 12
>>>> 8 22 28 24
>>>> 9 27 30 24
>>>>10 27 34 24
>>>>14 - - 24
>>>>15 - - 36
>>>>
>>>>(*) The TM751 sends out one 12% dim for every
>>>>so many repeats or fraction thereof - at least the
>>>>unit I have in hand right now labeled P10485B.
>>>>
>>>>So if you're using a PalmPad (6 repeats minimum),
>>>>the first step will be worse with a RR501 (17%)
>>>>or CM15A (22%), than with a TM751 (12%).
>>>>However holding down the PalmPad button for
>>>>appropriately longer times can give you smaller
>>>>subsequent steps with a RR501 or CM15A.
>>>>
>>>>(The RF repetitions were counted by observing
>>>>the raw output of an X10 MR26A receiver
>>>>connected to a serial port. The dims were
>>>>monitored with a CM11A.)
>>>>
>>>>Regards,
>>>>Charles Sullivan
>>>>
>>
MikyMike
24-01-2005, 11:41 AM
Hi,
I mistype the 1138U, i mean 1132U. It's the Smarthome PowerLink USB
1132U.
I will probably make an attempt with the CM11A controller, some LM14A
and some Leviton dimmers.
Thanks a lot for all this wonderfull informations..
__________
On Thu, 20 Jan 2005 22:02:19 GMT, nobody@whocares.com (Dave Houston)
wrote:
>A standard lamp module or switch will dim in 6% steps using any of the
>computer controlled X-10 interfaces.
>
>The LM14A and several Leviton switches will respond to extended commands -
>64 dim levels which can be set directly.
>
>Many of the SmartHome modules and switches will respond to preset dim
>commands - 32 dim levels which can be set directly. (I've had problems with
>these.)
>
>I think the CM11A is stable. The CM15A hardware is excellent but X-10 is
>still screwing with the firmware and software. I'm not sure what you mean by
>1138U - if it's the SmartHome interface, my personal experience with their
>products has been poor. Most of those who say nice things about them have a
>financial interest in saying nice things about them so I give them little
>credence.
>
>If you have software that can control the CM11A in response to IR commands,
>this might be the best way to go.
>
>Or, you might consider the IR543AH. You can buy it for about $60 from
>Baran-Harper. It can handle preset and extended dims but you will need a
>programmable remote (e.g. Pronto, Home Theater Master, PDA) to send the
>needed codes. I think it does 6% steps for standard dims but I may be
>mis-remembering. Most IR remotes can send the standard codes.
>
>Scenes are a function of the lamp module or switch not of the controller.
>The LM14A and many Leviton switches have scene capability. PCS switches and
>most of the SmartHome modules and switches also do scenes. Details vary.
>This app note explains things briefly (if you follow all of the embedded
>links).
>
> http://www.mbx-usa.com/compare.htm
>
>
>MikyMike <abcdef70@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>Thanks Dave for your great explanation.
>>
>>I'm a little bit disapointed by X10 product. At least the ones that I
>>have.
>>
>>It appears that using a remote is not the best way to go about it, so
>>i wonder, if i use only the computer to control the lights will I be
>>able to have proper dimming.
>>
>>I don't need a huge range (distance) because everything is in the same
>>room - light, remote, computer, and so on... it's for a home theater
>>room.
>>
>>If I can use the computer to control the lights with a decent dimming
>>effect (at least 6% dimming is already better than 12% or 18%...) it
>>will be ok for me. I can forget about controlling by remote using
>>RF...
>>
>>My computer is used as a personal video recorder, and have an IR
>>remote control for the playback/record part... maybe I could map a
>>couple of buttons to dim and raise lights, and simply use the computer
>>to send dim/raise to the lights, instead of using RF remote and with
>>RF receiver...
>>
>>I don`t need an exhaustive control of X10, I usually use the following
>>levels of light:
>>
>>100%, and 0% (ON,OFF)
>>70% and 30%, to create ambiance lightning...
>>
>>If scene dimming gives a better feel, maybe I could preset some
>>dimming scenes, like "dim to70%" or "to 30%", map a button for each
>>dimming preset, then simply tell the CM11A or any other controller to
>>execute these presets...
>>
>>
>>Do you know the dimming step (percents) and dimming scene capabilities
>>of the CM11A, CM15A, 1138U and so on???
>>
>>Which one is best??
>>_____________________________
>>
>>On Thu, 20 Jan 2005 12:11:37 GMT, nobody@whocares.com (Dave Houston)
>>wrote:
>>
>>>The TM751 has a minimum dim step of 12%. The RR501 has a minimum step of
>>>12-18%. The CM15A has a minimum step of 12%. The Leviton HCPRF has a minimum
>>>step of 12%. These are independent of the remote (except for the extra 6%
>>>step of the RR501).
>>>
>>>Most X-10 remotes and other X-10 RF transmitters send a minimum of five
>>>copies of the RF code. The SH624 and some of the universal remotes can send
>>>single copies if you press/release the button quickly. However, all of the
>>>transceivers will still send a 12% dim to the powerline even with a single
>>>RF copy.
>>>
>>>I made this a user setting (6% or 12%) with the BX24-AHT (no longer
>>>available). Dan Lanciani has implied that his replacement PIC for the RR501
>>>uses 6% steps but I don't recall seeing this stated explicitly. I don't
>>>think it's worthwhile to replace the RR501 PIC as it will still have poor RF
>>>range.
>>>
>>>There is no way to get less than 6% steps using standard dims. You can get
>>>~3% (1/32) steps using preset dims, or ~1.5% (1/64) but no X-10 remotes send
>>>these codes as RF and no standard X-10 transceivers respond to them. I did
>>>include these in the BX24-AHT but it required a programmable remote (e.g.
>>>Pronto) although, since the BX24-AHT allowed users to redefine the response
>>>to RF codes, it was possible to have it send preset or extended dims in
>>>response to a standard RF code.
>>>
>>>I am hoping to build all of the features of the BX24-AHT into a plug'n'play
>>>daughterboard that replaces the microcontroller in the CM15A but I'm still
>>>trying to decide on the PIC to use. The PIC18F252 looks good for a serial
>>>version and the PIC18F2550 is now shipping for USB but both need a crystal
>>>or resonator for the oscillator and, given that I want to avoid any
>>>soldering for the user, space is extremely limited. The PIC18F2620 has an
>>>internal oscillator (and more memory) but there's no USB equivalent.
>>>
>>>MikyMike <abcdef70@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>I've tried with a UR19 remote, i've tried with a palmpad, I've also
>>>>tried with the firecracker interface (from the spec, it's supposed to
>>>>dim the light by 5% increment).
>>>>
>>>>Whatever the remote i use, i always got the same thing, i can
>>>>dim/bright the light from 100% to 0% in 7 step, no mather the speed
>>>>pushing button. If i push the button once, the change in the dim is
>>>>really big.
>>>>
>>>>I'm not sure to understand what you mean by RF repetitions.. And i'm
>>>>still not sure of what i must do to have a proper dimming control.
>>>>I've think to use the computer only to control the light, if it's the
>>>>only solution to have a decent dimming control, but it's surely not
>>>>with the firecracker interface...
>>>>
>>>>Can you specify what i must use, to have a proper control of the
>>>>dimming?
>>>>
>>>>thank-you.
>>>>
>>>>On Wed, 19 Jan 2005 07:34:52 GMT, Charles Sullivan
>>>><cwsulliv@triad.rr.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 01:54:24 -0500, MikyMike wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Hi,
>>>>>> which Wireless Transceiver Module is more reliable than the TM751?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I have some problem with the tm751, when i dim light using remote
>>>>>> control, the light dim in big step.. i can dim it in 7 or 8...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I`m pretty sure it must be the poor TM751 design...
>>>>>
>>>>>You're putting _all_ the blame on the wrong horse - the
>>>>>problem is equally likely due to your remote.
>>>>>
>>>>>There are two factors at play here:
>>>>>
>>>>>1. Different remotes send a different minimum number of RF
>>>>>signal repetitions with the quickest possible tap on the
>>>>>button. Newer PalmPads and the UR81A Universal Remote
>>>>>send a minimum of 6 RF repetitions.
>>>>>
>>>>>Very old PalmPads and the X10 SS13A "Stick-a-Switch" can
>>>>>send as few as one. The Firecracker dongle always
>>>>>sends a minimum of 5 RF repetitions.
>>>>>
>>>>>2. Different transceivers accept different
>>>>>numbers of RF repetitions before they
>>>>>transmit the next higher level of Dims over
>>>>>the power line.
>>>>>
>>>>>Here's some data I measured with a SS13A:
>>>>>
>>>>> Dim level sent by
>>>>>RF transceiver (percent)
>>>>>Repeats RR501 CM15A TM751*
>>>>>------- ----- ----- -----
>>>>> 1 6% 6% 12%
>>>>> 2 6 12 12
>>>>> 3 6 12 12
>>>>> 4 12 15 12
>>>>> 5 12 18 12
>>>>> 6 17 22 12 <===
>>>>> 7 22 25 12
>>>>> 8 22 28 24
>>>>> 9 27 30 24
>>>>>10 27 34 24
>>>>>14 - - 24
>>>>>15 - - 36
>>>>>
>>>>>(*) The TM751 sends out one 12% dim for every
>>>>>so many repeats or fraction thereof - at least the
>>>>>unit I have in hand right now labeled P10485B.
>>>>>
>>>>>So if you're using a PalmPad (6 repeats minimum),
>>>>>the first step will be worse with a RR501 (17%)
>>>>>or CM15A (22%), than with a TM751 (12%).
>>>>>However holding down the PalmPad button for
>>>>>appropriately longer times can give you smaller
>>>>>subsequent steps with a RR501 or CM15A.
>>>>>
>>>>>(The RF repetitions were counted by observing
>>>>>the raw output of an X10 MR26A receiver
>>>>>connected to a serial port. The dims were
>>>>>monitored with a CM11A.)
>>>>>
>>>>>Regards,
>>>>>Charles Sullivan
>>>>>
>>>
>
Mitch
24-01-2005, 11:41 AM
I've had very bad experiences with the CM11A. It's locked up frequently
on me.
Most of the people I've spoken with who've done lots of installations
like the Marrick LynX-10. It's a little expensive, but supposed to be
rock solid and have the best x-10 implementation. (There's even cool
software for analyzing what's going on the powerline with it.)
I've used the Powerlinc USB and Serial interfaces in installations with
no problems. I have had one DOA (USB model) though.
None of the pros seem to use X-10 Inc's products at all.
I've had the most problems with palmpads and other x10 wireless stuff.
I'm probably going to move to IP (on 802.11) wherever I can (lots of $$$).
Mitch
Dave Houston wrote:
> A standard lamp module or switch will dim in 6% steps using any of the
> computer controlled X-10 interfaces.
>
> The LM14A and several Leviton switches will respond to extended commands -
> 64 dim levels which can be set directly.
>
> Many of the SmartHome modules and switches will respond to preset dim
> commands - 32 dim levels which can be set directly. (I've had problems with
> these.)
>
> I think the CM11A is stable. The CM15A hardware is excellent but X-10 is
> still screwing with the firmware and software. I'm not sure what you mean by
> 1138U - if it's the SmartHome interface, my personal experience with their
> products has been poor. Most of those who say nice things about them have a
> financial interest in saying nice things about them so I give them little
> credence.
>
> If you have software that can control the CM11A in response to IR commands,
> this might be the best way to go.
>
> Or, you might consider the IR543AH. You can buy it for about $60 from
> Baran-Harper. It can handle preset and extended dims but you will need a
> programmable remote (e.g. Pronto, Home Theater Master, PDA) to send the
> needed codes. I think it does 6% steps for standard dims but I may be
> mis-remembering. Most IR remotes can send the standard codes.
>
> Scenes are a function of the lamp module or switch not of the controller.
> The LM14A and many Leviton switches have scene capability. PCS switches and
> most of the SmartHome modules and switches also do scenes. Details vary.
> This app note explains things briefly (if you follow all of the embedded
> links).
>
> http://www.mbx-usa.com/compare.htm
>
>
> MikyMike <abcdef70@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Thanks Dave for your great explanation.
>>
>>I'm a little bit disapointed by X10 product. At least the ones that I
>>have.
>>
>>It appears that using a remote is not the best way to go about it, so
>>i wonder, if i use only the computer to control the lights will I be
>>able to have proper dimming.
>>
>>I don't need a huge range (distance) because everything is in the same
>>room - light, remote, computer, and so on... it's for a home theater
>>room.
>>
>>If I can use the computer to control the lights with a decent dimming
>>effect (at least 6% dimming is already better than 12% or 18%...) it
>>will be ok for me. I can forget about controlling by remote using
>>RF...
>>
>>My computer is used as a personal video recorder, and have an IR
>>remote control for the playback/record part... maybe I could map a
>>couple of buttons to dim and raise lights, and simply use the computer
>>to send dim/raise to the lights, instead of using RF remote and with
>>RF receiver...
>>
>>I don`t need an exhaustive control of X10, I usually use the following
>>levels of light:
>>
>>100%, and 0% (ON,OFF)
>>70% and 30%, to create ambiance lightning...
>>
>>If scene dimming gives a better feel, maybe I could preset some
>>dimming scenes, like "dim to70%" or "to 30%", map a button for each
>>dimming preset, then simply tell the CM11A or any other controller to
>>execute these presets...
>>
>>
>>Do you know the dimming step (percents) and dimming scene capabilities
>>of the CM11A, CM15A, 1138U and so on???
>>
>>Which one is best??
>>_____________________________
>>
>>On Thu, 20 Jan 2005 12:11:37 GMT, nobody@whocares.com (Dave Houston)
>>wrote:
>>
>>
>>>The TM751 has a minimum dim step of 12%. The RR501 has a minimum step of
>>>12-18%. The CM15A has a minimum step of 12%. The Leviton HCPRF has a minimum
>>>step of 12%. These are independent of the remote (except for the extra 6%
>>>step of the RR501).
>>>
>>>Most X-10 remotes and other X-10 RF transmitters send a minimum of five
>>>copies of the RF code. The SH624 and some of the universal remotes can send
>>>single copies if you press/release the button quickly. However, all of the
>>>transceivers will still send a 12% dim to the powerline even with a single
>>>RF copy.
>>>
>>>I made this a user setting (6% or 12%) with the BX24-AHT (no longer
>>>available). Dan Lanciani has implied that his replacement PIC for the RR501
>>>uses 6% steps but I don't recall seeing this stated explicitly. I don't
>>>think it's worthwhile to replace the RR501 PIC as it will still have poor RF
>>>range.
>>>
>>>There is no way to get less than 6% steps using standard dims. You can get
>>>~3% (1/32) steps using preset dims, or ~1.5% (1/64) but no X-10 remotes send
>>>these codes as RF and no standard X-10 transceivers respond to them. I did
>>>include these in the BX24-AHT but it required a programmable remote (e.g.
>>>Pronto) although, since the BX24-AHT allowed users to redefine the response
>>>to RF codes, it was possible to have it send preset or extended dims in
>>>response to a standard RF code.
>>>
>>>I am hoping to build all of the features of the BX24-AHT into a plug'n'play
>>>daughterboard that replaces the microcontroller in the CM15A but I'm still
>>>trying to decide on the PIC to use. The PIC18F252 looks good for a serial
>>>version and the PIC18F2550 is now shipping for USB but both need a crystal
>>>or resonator for the oscillator and, given that I want to avoid any
>>>soldering for the user, space is extremely limited. The PIC18F2620 has an
>>>internal oscillator (and more memory) but there's no USB equivalent.
>>>
>>>MikyMike <abcdef70@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>I've tried with a UR19 remote, i've tried with a palmpad, I've also
>>>>tried with the firecracker interface (from the spec, it's supposed to
>>>>dim the light by 5% increment).
>>>>
>>>>Whatever the remote i use, i always got the same thing, i can
>>>>dim/bright the light from 100% to 0% in 7 step, no mather the speed
>>>>pushing button. If i push the button once, the change in the dim is
>>>>really big.
>>>>
>>>>I'm not sure to understand what you mean by RF repetitions.. And i'm
>>>>still not sure of what i must do to have a proper dimming control.
>>>>I've think to use the computer only to control the light, if it's the
>>>>only solution to have a decent dimming control, but it's surely not
>>>>with the firecracker interface...
>>>>
>>>>Can you specify what i must use, to have a proper control of the
>>>>dimming?
>>>>
>>>>thank-you.
>>>>
>>>>On Wed, 19 Jan 2005 07:34:52 GMT, Charles Sullivan
>>>><cwsulliv@triad.rr.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 01:54:24 -0500, MikyMike wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Hi,
>>>>>>which Wireless Transceiver Module is more reliable than the TM751?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I have some problem with the tm751, when i dim light using remote
>>>>>>control, the light dim in big step.. i can dim it in 7 or 8...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I`m pretty sure it must be the poor TM751 design...
>>>>>
>>>>>You're putting _all_ the blame on the wrong horse - the
>>>>>problem is equally likely due to your remote.
>>>>>
>>>>>There are two factors at play here:
>>>>>
>>>>>1. Different remotes send a different minimum number of RF
>>>>>signal repetitions with the quickest possible tap on the
>>>>>button. Newer PalmPads and the UR81A Universal Remote
>>>>>send a minimum of 6 RF repetitions.
>>>>>
>>>>>Very old PalmPads and the X10 SS13A "Stick-a-Switch" can
>>>>>send as few as one. The Firecracker dongle always
>>>>>sends a minimum of 5 RF repetitions.
>>>>>
>>>>>2. Different transceivers accept different
>>>>>numbers of RF repetitions before they
>>>>>transmit the next higher level of Dims over
>>>>>the power line.
>>>>>
>>>>>Here's some data I measured with a SS13A:
>>>>>
>>>>> Dim level sent by
>>>>>RF transceiver (percent)
>>>>>Repeats RR501 CM15A TM751*
>>>>>------- ----- ----- -----
>>>>>1 6% 6% 12%
>>>>>2 6 12 12
>>>>>3 6 12 12
>>>>>4 12 15 12
>>>>>5 12 18 12
>>>>>6 17 22 12 <===
>>>>>7 22 25 12
>>>>>8 22 28 24
>>>>>9 27 30 24
>>>>>10 27 34 24
>>>>>14 - - 24
>>>>>15 - - 36
>>>>>
>>>>>(*) The TM751 sends out one 12% dim for every
>>>>>so many repeats or fraction thereof - at least the
>>>>>unit I have in hand right now labeled P10485B.
>>>>>
>>>>>So if you're using a PalmPad (6 repeats minimum),
>>>>>the first step will be worse with a RR501 (17%)
>>>>>or CM15A (22%), than with a TM751 (12%).
>>>>>However holding down the PalmPad button for
>>>>>appropriately longer times can give you smaller
>>>>>subsequent steps with a RR501 or CM15A.
>>>>>
>>>>>(The RF repetitions were counted by observing
>>>>>the raw output of an X10 MR26A receiver
>>>>>connected to a serial port. The dims were
>>>>>monitored with a CM11A.)
>>>>>
>>>>>Regards,
>>>>>Charles Sullivan
>>>>>
>>>
>
>
clemslay@iname.com
24-01-2005, 11:41 AM
On 18 Jan 2005 20:36:29 GMT, ddl@danlan.*com (Dan Lanciani) wrote:
>Well, obviously I'm biased, but I think the best replacement is an RR501
>running my custom firmware available from the home automation page of
>www.danlan.com. It fixes the dimming problem and supports any combination
>of house codes. Unfortunately, you have to do some soldering to use it...
>
> Dan Lanciani
> ddl@danlan.*com
I don't mind soldering.
I'm still waiting to find out how we can get these.
<a096p0t80titd0jfs2envo24ln5gia24pa@4ax.com>
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