Cat-6 Installation Advice

[scary_penguin@hotmail.com]

I'm finishing a basement, and leaning towards installing Cat-6 to four
data points. My current plan is to run the cable about 6 inches off
the ground (to stay below electrical outlets, to attach the cable to
the back side of the stud wall by some suitably gentle method, and to
run the cable alongside coax and phone cable where they're going to the
same place).

1) Despite the fact that I'm not going through the studs, the back side
of a stud wall (between the stud and the foundation) is "non-plenum,"
right?

2) Most people sell 1000' spools, but I only need 500'. Is there a
search that I should use to find 500' spools of bonded-pair cat6?

3) Am I planning anything dumb?

Thanks,
Jon

[jaykchan@hotmail.com]

I have recently run cat-6 around the house. And I suggest these:

- Don't use the jacks and DIY-plugs from lanshack.com.

Somehow, when I insert a plug (their plug or a plug
from other source) into a jack from them, the plug
cannot click. This means the plug is only being held
with fiction. I don't know why it is like this.
Otherwise, their jack is really good; it has "cat-6"
printed on it, very nice; and it has a way to tie
down the cable onto the jack.

I cannot use their DIY-plugs to make a patch cable.
Didn't matter how hard I try, I got zero success.
If you want to try your luck, I can mail them to
you as long as you pay for the return-mail. But I
don't recommend this.

I suggest to get the jacks and DIY-plugs from
action-electronics.com. The only warning is that
when you trim wires from a DIY-plug (this is the
last step to make a DIY-patch cable using their
DIY-plug), you should use something like a nail
clipper to trim them instead of a utility knief
or other cutter. The point is to get a clean cut.
Otherwise, crushed wires may cross each other
and short. Or, you can order pre-made patch cables.

I use a roll of cat-6 cable from lanshack and jacks
and plugs from action-electronics. The result is
good. I can get gigabit speed according to my
LinkSys gigabit switch.

- You can get a low cost cable-tester that is for
cat-5. We use it to test continuity. Basically,
we can get other tools from a retail store
instead of ordering them online; the price can
actually cheaper this way.

- The bare patch panel idea shown in lanshack sample
home network is good. I use their bare patch panel.
But I don't use their coupling-jacks. I use normal
jacks instead -- cheaper this way and are easily
available.

- Use two jacks in each outlet for networking instead
of just one. You may need two devices in the
location where the outlet is: One is a PC, another
one may be a network media player, such as a
MediaVP or a Microsoft Media Center Extender.

- While you have the wall open, you may take the
opportunity to add other cables and jacks:

Two phone cables: One for voice, another one for
a set-top box. You may add the third phone jack
if you want to output SkyPe VoIP phone connection
from a PC in the basement to the other part of
the house (Honestly I haven't tried this yet).
The alternative is to use cordless phones to
connect to a SkyPe device in the basement.

Two coax cables: One for video input from satellite
dish, or from cable company, or from antenna dish.
Another one for video output from a dual-tunner
receiver (such as the one from Dish Network), or
from another video source (such as a shared DVD
player).

Put all these cables together inside a tude, and
leave one or two strings inside the tude for
pulling other cables in the future.

- Buy ready made central panel (a box) from Home Depot
for all the cables to home run into it. This is
neater this way than using a piece of plywall.
I am currently using a piece of plywall and a
home-made shelf to house everything. But I figure
buying a ready-made one is probably saves me time
and is much neater. The only reservation is that
I probably want the box to be deep enough to put
a SOHO style router horizontally or at 45-degree
angle then I can check the LED in front of the
router.

Good luck.

Jay Chan

[BruceR]

Your home is non-plenum so no need for plenum rated cable. 500' spools
are available and typically cost about 70% of the cost of a 1000' spool.
If you run the cable 6" above ground and the electrical is 12" you have
a problem. Keep parallel runs at least 12" apart and when crossing a
power line do so at a 90 degree angle.
If you're going to make your own patch cords use EZ-RJ45s. They are the
best thing since sliced bread as you don't have to trim the conductors
like you do with standard plugs. Best cable tacker is the PowerFast
brand, you won't knick wires with the staples.

From:scary_penguin@hotmail.com
scary_penguin@hotmail.com

> I'm finishing a basement, and leaning towards installing Cat-6 to four
> data points. My current plan is to run the cable about 6 inches off
> the ground (to stay below electrical outlets, to attach the cable to
> the back side of the stud wall by some suitably gentle method, and to
> run the cable alongside coax and phone cable where they're going to
> the same place).
>
> 1) Despite the fact that I'm not going through the studs, the back
> side of a stud wall (between the stud and the foundation) is
> "non-plenum," right?
>
> 2) Most people sell 1000' spools, but I only need 500'. Is there a
> search that I should use to find 500' spools of bonded-pair cat6?
>
> 3) Am I planning anything dumb?
>
> Thanks,
> Jon

[unrulygrrl@gmail.com]

I already have an RJ45 crimper. Can I use this with the EZRJ45s?
or do I have to buy the EZRJ45 special crimper?

thanks
-jennifer

[BruceR]

You can use your existing crimper and then trim off the leads with
snips. The only thing the EZ crimper does differently is trim the leads
automatically. After you've used the EZ RJ45s one time, you'll never go
back to the old style. That and the Powerfast cable tacker are my new
favorite items. I also like the RJ45 jacks offered by www.pimfg.com
with the horeshoe configuration. Makes terminating cables a breeze.
Anything I find that makes a job go faster and improves quality is a
must in my book!

From:unrulygrrl@gmail.com
unrulygrrl@gmail.com

> I already have an RJ45 crimper. Can I use this with the EZRJ45s?
> or do I have to buy the EZRJ45 special crimper?
>
> thanks
> -jennifer

[Robert L. Bass]

<scary_penguin@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1112715751.851781.76860@f14g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> I'm finishing a basement, and leaning towards installing Cat-6 to four
> data points. My current plan is to run the cable about 6 inches off
> the ground (to stay below electrical outlets, to attach the cable to
> the back side of the stud wall by some suitably gentle method, and to
> run the cable alongside coax and phone cable where they're going to the
> same place).
>
> 1) Despite the fact that I'm not going through the studs, the back side
> of a stud wall (between the stud and the foundation) is "non-plenum,"
> right?

Right.

> 2) Most people sell 1000' spools, but I only need 500'. Is there a
> search that I should use to find 500' spools of bonded-pair cat6?

I sell cable in 500 and 1000 foot lengths.

> 3) Am I planning anything dumb?

Not so far.

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

=============================>
Bass Home Electronics
2291 Pine View Circle
Sarasota · Florida · 34231
877-722-8900 Sales & Tech Support
http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
=============================>

[Robert L. Bass]

> Your home is non-plenum so no need for plenum rated cable. 500' spools are
> available and typically cost about 70% of the cost of a 1000' spool. If
> you run the cable 6" above ground and the electrical is 12" you have a
> problem. Keep parallel runs at least 12" apart and when crossing a power
> line do so at a 90 degree angle.

Agreed about crossing at 90º angles but short (< 2 ft) parallel runs won't
cause problems. The only thing that might be inconvenient is running
patches directly below electrical plugs. I like to keep data, phone and
power cables at standard outlet heights but that's just my preference.
YMMV.

> If you're going to make your own patch
> cords use EZ-RJ45s...

Personally, I prefer to buy premade patch cords. They're usually reliable
and cost so little that it's not worth my time to make my own.

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

=============================>
Bass Home Electronics
2291 Pine View Circle
Sarasota · Florida · 34231
877-722-8900 Sales & Tech Support
http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
=============================>

[Boleslaw Ciesielski]

Robert L. Bass wrote:
>>2) Most people sell 1000' spools, but I only need 500'. Is there a
>>search that I should use to find 500' spools of bonded-pair cat6?
>
>
> I sell cable in 500 and 1000 foot lengths.

But I don't see any Cat6 on your website?
(http://www.bassburglaralarms.com/category_296.htm)

Bolek

[Robert Green]

"BruceR" <brNOSPAM@hawaii.com> wrote in message

> After you've used the EZ RJ45s one time, you'll never go
> back to the old style.

Hi Bruce, Mind if I pick your brain a bit?

Are EZ crimps as much of a leap over regular RJ45's as Push'N'Seals are over
regular crimp connectors for RG cable? I've been looking at the model
Worthington sells as:

Platinum Tools 100008
EZ-RJ45 Combo Pack
24 Connectors and Tool $68

Is that a good deal? Can I also use this tool to terminate RJ11 cables for
phone use?

What would you recommend to test the cables once they're in place? I've
looked at this device

http://www.asihome.com/ASIshop/product_info.php?cPath=103_153&products_id=10
40

TUTP300
Description: This cable run tester was designed specifically for
Home Networking and Home Automation professionals. It can
test and locate CATV, telephone, audio, security, and network
cabling. The large, easy to read display shows the pass or fail
status of each test. The Resi-Tester has a built-in tone generator
and the wire test remote is stored right in the tester. Up to 20
cables can be identified and wiremapped using optional
identifier sets.

But I'm not sure it will tell me anything other than continuity.

> That and the Powerfast cable tacker are my new favorite items.

How does the Powerfast compare to insulated cable tackers? Lots of cabling
guides that I've read aren't keen on stapling cable so that the metal staple
is directly against the cable jacket. The theory is that in time vibration
and settling can cause the cable to pull and the staple to cut into the
jacket. As I person who has managed to put a CT-10 staple right some network
cable (right at the worst place possible, I'm interested in ways to keep
that from happening again. That incident turned out to be at least a $100
time waste as well as 9.0 on the Richter "pissed off at myself" scale.
I've found some interesting tools here:

http://www.mccartenco.com/products/wandc/index-1863.html

and am particularly interested in the RB-2 Clip gun and RG-6 Quad Clips.
Product ID: 30-RB-2 Price: $32.95

I've already got an insulated stapler for RG59U and CAT5, and like the
Powerfast, the staple legs are much wider than the actual cable, but I'd
really like something better to fasten RG6QS that the nail-in clips I'm
currently using.

> I also like the RJ45 jacks offered by www.pimfg.com
> with the horeshoe configuration. Makes terminating cables a breeze.

Do you have a part number? I searched on RJ45 and all I could find were
rows and rows of 7 RJ8-25S-BLK
(Catalog Page#: 22) MOD ADAPTER,RJ45-DB25F,BLACK in different colors and a
few other items, but no jacks.

> Anything I find that makes a job go faster and improves quality is a
> must in my book!

Amen! When I first started running video cables, I used <shudder> twist-on
connectors. Then, when I got tired of leaking signals and connectors that
pulled off, I got a hex crimper. Finally, after reading message after
message singing the praises of Push'N'Seal I finally bit the bullet. Why I
EVER messed around with anything else, I will never know. Perfect
watertight connections almost every time.

I have one other question. I've seen Push'N'Seal connectors for RCA and BNC
connectors. They're quite expensive and I would have to buy a new
compression tool to use them. Are they better than using a F to BNC and F
to RCA adapters? Costwise, they're really about the same.

The only difference I can see is that when it's time to rewire it would be
cheaper to cut the 37 cent "Type F" Push'N'Seal off the cable and redo it
than to cut off the $2+ BNC and RCA Push'N'Seals.

Another upside to plain "F" connectors is that I can use right angle F
adapters to enable me to keep equipment closer to the back wall than I could
with a straight-in run of RG6QS. A serious downside I can see is that the
more adapters you have, the more opportunity there is for signal leakage.

Thanks!

--
Bobby G.

[BruceR]

The EZ crimps are indeed to RJ45's what Snap 'n Seals are to coax. Try a
pack and see for your self. You don't have to buy the tool until you're
sure. Your standard tool will be fine but you'll just have to snip the
ends off with nippers - takes all of 2 seconds. Testing is the same for
any patch cable. If your just doing this for your home and not for a
living, any 8LED tester will do th job. They're on ebay for uunder $20.
If you want the deal of the century, buy this kit for $80:
http://www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=15043+TL
Although I have a full set of professional installation tools I keep
one of these kits at my second home and another in the trunk of my car
"just in case."

The Worthington price for the EZ RJ$% kit seems OK. Check this place and
ebay too:
http://www.cmh.net/catalog/Telecom_ModularPlugs.html

As for staples, I don'r use the insulated ones because they're
unsightly. I have NEVER had a staple cut the cable during installation
or anytime thereafter except of course when I've stapled through the
cable. So, to answer your question, I'd stick with the Powerfast metal
staples and perfect my technique on some scrap wire rather than go the
insulated route. That being said, there's certainly nothing wrong in
using insulated.

As for push 'n seal or snap 'n seal connectors, I love those things. I
let what I'm connecting to guide me on what connector to use but
generally I use the F connectors for video and adapters to BNC or RCA if
needed (like for CCTV cams). I use rightangle adapters all the time.
They only add about 1db of loss and no leakage.

Here's a page link to the horeshoe connectors:
http://tinyurl.com/c6szx or
http://www.pimfg.com/local_cat_a.asp?main_type=18&master_desc=Networking&sub_type=1&secondary_desc=Horse%2DShoe+Type+Keystone+Jack


From:Robert Green
ROBERT_GREEN1963@YAH00.COM

> "BruceR" <brNOSPAM@hawaii.com> wrote in message
>
>> After you've used the EZ RJ45s one time, you'll never go
>> back to the old style.
>
> Hi Bruce, Mind if I pick your brain a bit?
>
> Are EZ crimps as much of a leap over regular RJ45's as Push'N'Seals
> are over regular crimp connectors for RG cable? I've been looking at
> the model Worthington sells as:
>
> Platinum Tools 100008
> EZ-RJ45 Combo Pack
> 24 Connectors and Tool $68
>
> Is that a good deal? Can I also use this tool to terminate RJ11
> cables for phone use?
>
> What would you recommend to test the cables once they're in place?
> I've looked at this device
>
> http://www.asihome.com/ASIshop/product_info.php?cPath=103_153&products_id=10
> 40
>
> TUTP300
> Description: This cable run tester was designed specifically for
> Home Networking and Home Automation professionals. It can
> test and locate CATV, telephone, audio, security, and network
> cabling. The large, easy to read display shows the pass or fail
> status of each test. The Resi-Tester has a built-in tone generator
> and the wire test remote is stored right in the tester. Up to 20
> cables can be identified and wiremapped using optional
> identifier sets.
>
> But I'm not sure it will tell me anything other than continuity.
>
>> That and the Powerfast cable tacker are my new favorite items.
>
> How does the Powerfast compare to insulated cable tackers? Lots of
> cabling guides that I've read aren't keen on stapling cable so that
> the metal staple is directly against the cable jacket. The theory is
> that in time vibration and settling can cause the cable to pull and
> the staple to cut into the jacket. As I person who has managed to put
> a CT-10 staple right some network cable (right at the worst place
> possible, I'm interested in ways to keep that from happening again.
> That incident turned out to be at least a $100 time waste as well as
> 9.0 on the Richter "pissed off at myself" scale.
> I've found some interesting tools here:
>
> http://www.mccartenco.com/products/wandc/index-1863.html
>
> and am particularly interested in the RB-2 Clip gun and RG-6 Quad
> Clips. Product ID: 30-RB-2 Price: $32.95
>
> I've already got an insulated stapler for RG59U and CAT5, and like the
> Powerfast, the staple legs are much wider than the actual cable, but
> I'd really like something better to fasten RG6QS that the nail-in
> clips I'm currently using.
>
>> I also like the RJ45 jacks offered by www.pimfg.com
>> with the horeshoe configuration. Makes terminating cables a breeze.
>
> Do you have a part number? I searched on RJ45 and all I could find
> were rows and rows of 7 RJ8-25S-BLK
> (Catalog Page#: 22) MOD ADAPTER,RJ45-DB25F,BLACK in different colors
> and a few other items, but no jacks.
>
>> Anything I find that makes a job go faster and improves quality is a
>> must in my book!
>
> Amen! When I first started running video cables, I used <shudder>
> twist-on connectors. Then, when I got tired of leaking signals and
> connectors that pulled off, I got a hex crimper. Finally, after
> reading message after message singing the praises of Push'N'Seal I
> finally bit the bullet. Why I EVER messed around with anything else,
> I will never know. Perfect watertight connections almost every time.
>
> I have one other question. I've seen Push'N'Seal connectors for RCA
> and BNC connectors. They're quite expensive and I would have to buy
> a new compression tool to use them. Are they better than using a F
> to BNC and F to RCA adapters? Costwise, they're really about the
> same.
>
> The only difference I can see is that when it's time to rewire it
> would be cheaper to cut the 37 cent "Type F" Push'N'Seal off the
> cable and redo it than to cut off the $2+ BNC and RCA Push'N'Seals.
>
> Another upside to plain "F" connectors is that I can use right angle F
> adapters to enable me to keep equipment closer to the back wall than
> I could with a straight-in run of RG6QS. A serious downside I can
> see is that the more adapters you have, the more opportunity there is
> for signal leakage.
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> Bobby G.

[Robert Green]

"BruceR" <brNOSPAM@hawaii.com> wrote in message
news:u6I9e.976$CH.727@news-wrt-01.socal.rr.com...
> The EZ crimps are indeed to RJ45's what Snap 'n Seals are to coax. Try a
> pack and see for your self. You don't have to buy the tool until you're
> sure. Your standard tool will be fine but you'll just have to snip the
> ends off with nippers - takes all of 2 seconds. Testing is the same for
> any patch cable. If your just doing this for your home and not for a
> living, any 8LED tester will do th job.

That's what I thought. I already have a Fox & hound tracer.

> They're on ebay for uunder $20.
> If you want the deal of the century, buy this kit for $80:
> http://www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=15043+TL
> Although I have a full set of professional installation tools I keep
> one of these kits at my second home and another in the trunk of my car
> "just in case."

Yes, that's a nice kit. I'll see what EBay has to offer, though. I already
have duplicates of many items in the kit. I probably don't need triplicates
until I own more houses!

> The Worthington price for the EZ RJ$% kit seems OK. Check this place and
> ebay too:
> http://www.cmh.net/catalog/Telecom_ModularPlugs.html
>
> As for staples, I don'r use the insulated ones because they're
> unsightly. I have NEVER had a staple cut the cable during installation
> or anytime thereafter except of course when I've stapled through the
> cable. So, to answer your question, I'd stick with the Powerfast metal
> staples and perfect my technique on some scrap wire rather than go the
> insulated route. That being said, there's certainly nothing wrong in
> using insulated.

I suspect that cable penetration is more of a problem in the regular sort of
cable staple where it's the jacket that actually stops the staple. As
you've noted, the Powerfast staple shape pretty much insures that heel of
the staple will be stopped by the wooden surface, not the cable jacket.

I went the insulated route because where I worked we had issues with net
cables being squashed by normal cable stables. Took an expensive TDR and
expensive techs to find the bad spot. It looks to me like Powerfast staples
allow less-skilled operators to perform professional looking work, so I am
all for that, since I am, without any doubt, a less-skilled operator. :-)

> As for push 'n seal or snap 'n seal connectors, I love those things. I
> let what I'm connecting to guide me on what connector to use but
> generally I use the F connectors for video and adapters to BNC or RCA if
> needed (like for CCTV cams). I use rightangle adapters all the time.
> They only add about 1db of loss and no leakage.

Good. I've been going nuts over which connectors to choose. I'm partial to
the new universal system that F-Conns has:

http://www.icmcorp.net/F-ConnCommSeries.htm

if only because it allows the use of different colored inserts on each
cable. I can get the same effect with colored shrink tubing but the inserts
look a lot neater. It's probably a good time to ask what you use as a
labeling system for your cables. For multiple runs of RG59 coming through
the same conduit I've just been using white cable and some crayola crayons
to mark it as I pull it out of the box. It's not very pretty but it's
effective. No labels I've used seem able to stick to the cable although
they seem to stick well enough to slide off and jam if you've got to pull a
labeled cable out of a conduit. I've never had the crayola stripe bunch up
or peel off.

> Here's a page link to the horeshoe connectors:
> http://tinyurl.com/c6szx or
>
http://www.pimfg.com/local_cat_a.asp?main_type=18&master_desc=Networking&sub
_type=1&secondary_desc=Horse%2DShoe+Type+Keystone+Jack

Mama Mia I hate search engines! I tried "RJ45" but not "CAT6" and I tried
"horseshoe" but not "horse-shoe" (although I now see that you've spelt it
"hore" shoe <!> ) and they've spelt "keystone" jack as "kestone" jack.
Phew! Thanks for the Tiny URL!!

Thanks,

--
Bobby G.

[BruceR]

Sorry about the misspellings - too much wine at dinner. For labeling
anything but a black cable I use a Sharpie in at least two places. Never
fails me. If the cable is black I use a write-on label that wraps around
with a clear cover.

From:Robert Green
ROBERT_GREEN1963@YAH00.COM

> "BruceR" <brNOSPAM@hawaii.com> wrote in message
> news:u6I9e.976$CH.727@news-wrt-01.socal.rr.com...
>> The EZ crimps are indeed to RJ45's what Snap 'n Seals are to coax.
>> Try a pack and see for your self. You don't have to buy the tool
>> until you're sure. Your standard tool will be fine but you'll just
>> have to snip the ends off with nippers - takes all of 2 seconds.
>> Testing is the same for any patch cable. If your just doing this for
>> your home and not for a living, any 8LED tester will do th job.
>
> That's what I thought. I already have a Fox & hound tracer.
>
>> They're on ebay for uunder $20.
>> If you want the deal of the century, buy this kit for $80:
>> http://www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=15043+TL
>> Although I have a full set of professional installation tools I keep
>> one of these kits at my second home and another in the trunk of my
>> car "just in case."
>
> Yes, that's a nice kit. I'll see what EBay has to offer, though. I
> already have duplicates of many items in the kit. I probably don't
> need triplicates until I own more houses!
>
>> The Worthington price for the EZ RJ$% kit seems OK. Check this place
>> and ebay too:
>> http://www.cmh.net/catalog/Telecom_ModularPlugs.html
>>
>> As for staples, I don'r use the insulated ones because they're
>> unsightly. I have NEVER had a staple cut the cable during
>> installation or anytime thereafter except of course when I've
>> stapled through the cable. So, to answer your question, I'd stick
>> with the Powerfast metal staples and perfect my technique on some
>> scrap wire rather than go the insulated route. That being said,
>> there's certainly nothing wrong in using insulated.
>
> I suspect that cable penetration is more of a problem in the regular
> sort of cable staple where it's the jacket that actually stops the
> staple. As you've noted, the Powerfast staple shape pretty much
> insures that heel of the staple will be stopped by the wooden
> surface, not the cable jacket.
>
> I went the insulated route because where I worked we had issues with
> net cables being squashed by normal cable stables. Took an expensive
> TDR and expensive techs to find the bad spot. It looks to me like
> Powerfast staples allow less-skilled operators to perform
> professional looking work, so I am all for that, since I am, without
> any doubt, a less-skilled operator. :-)
>
>> As for push 'n seal or snap 'n seal connectors, I love those things.
>> I let what I'm connecting to guide me on what connector to use but
>> generally I use the F connectors for video and adapters to BNC or
>> RCA if needed (like for CCTV cams). I use rightangle adapters all
>> the time. They only add about 1db of loss and no leakage.
>
> Good. I've been going nuts over which connectors to choose. I'm
> partial to the new universal system that F-Conns has:
>
> http://www.icmcorp.net/F-ConnCommSeries.htm
>
> if only because it allows the use of different colored inserts on each
> cable. I can get the same effect with colored shrink tubing but the
> inserts look a lot neater. It's probably a good time to ask what you
> use as a labeling system for your cables. For multiple runs of RG59
> coming through the same conduit I've just been using white cable and
> some crayola crayons to mark it as I pull it out of the box. It's
> not very pretty but it's effective. No labels I've used seem able to
> stick to the cable although they seem to stick well enough to slide
> off and jam if you've got to pull a labeled cable out of a conduit.
> I've never had the crayola stripe bunch up or peel off.
>
>> Here's a page link to the horeshoe connectors:
>> http://tinyurl.com/c6szx or
>>
> http://www.pimfg.com/local_cat_a.asp?main_type=18&master_desc=Networking&sub
> _type=1&secondary_desc=Horse%2DShoe+Type+Keystone+Jack
>
> Mama Mia I hate search engines! I tried "RJ45" but not "CAT6" and I
> tried "horseshoe" but not "horse-shoe" (although I now see that
> you've spelt it "hore" shoe <!> ) and they've spelt "keystone" jack
> as "kestone" jack. Phew! Thanks for the Tiny URL!!
>
> Thanks,
>
> --
> Bobby G.

[Robert L. Bass]

> Sorry about the misspellings - too much wine at dinner. For labeling
> anything but a black cable I use a Sharpie in at least two places. Never
> fails me. If the cable is black I use a write-on label that wraps around
> with a clear cover.

Same here, Bruce. We marked all of our cables that way for many years.
Most tags, sticky labels, etc. eventually fall off. Sharpie will last until
Jesus returns.

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

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Bass Home Electronics
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Sarasota · Florida · 34231
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